VISIT THE HOME OF EL GRECO – FODELE, CRETE

Where is Fodele?

Fodele is located about half an hour west of Heraklion and roughly an hour east of Rethymno.

The village itself sits slightly inland, around 50 to 60 metres above sea level, where a small stream winds its way through shady plane trees and stone houses.

It is well signed from the main highway and easy to find with the turn off opposite Paralia Fodele beach, into the lush valley – it’s a lovely part of the island, and often overlooked.

What is it famous for?

Fodele has a reputation that far outweighs its size, and its all about its most famous resident – actually one of the most famous to come out of Greece!

The village was the birthplace of Domenikos Theotokopoulos, better known as El Greco — the Cretan-born painter who became one of the greatest figures of the Spanish Renaissance. 

You can visit a small museum housed in what’s believed to be his family home, where you’ll find reproductions of his most famous works and a good sense of his connection to Crete.

Aside from its artistic heritage, Fodele is also known for its citrus orchards. The fertile soil and fresh water from the nearby hills produce some of the juiciest oranges and mandarins on the island. When the trees are in bloom, the scent alone makes a visit worthwhile. The local economy still revolves around agriculture, and you’ll often see crates of oranges being sold at roadside stalls or in tavern courtyards.

The village is also known for its lush, shaded riverbanks, where the Pantomantris River runs beneath a canopy of tall plane trees — a rare sight on such a sun-baked island. Combined with its slow rhythm and friendly locals, Fodele feels like a pocket of old Crete that’s managed to stay authentic while welcoming visitors.

There’s also a touch of ancient history hidden in its soil. Archaeologists believe that nearby Fodele Bay may once have been the harbour of Astali, the port of the ancient city of Axos. You won’t find major ruins, but knowing this background adds another layer to the area’s long and fascinating story.

What is there to do in Fodele?

Fodele is small enough to explore on foot, yet rich enough to keep you busy for a day or two.

• Start with the El Greco Museum, just outside the village centre. The building itself is charmingly simple, and while the artworks are reproductions, the exhibition gives real insight into El Greco’s life before he left Crete for Venice and then Spain. Art lovers will enjoy the connection to a world-famous painter in such a humble setting.
• Byzantine Church of the Panagia, built between the 11th and 14th centuries over the remains of an early Christian basilica. Its stone walls and fading frescoes are a reminder of how long people have worshipped in this valley.
• If you have a car, drive a little further into the hills to visit the Monastery of Agios Panteleimon, a 16th-century complex that once served as both a refuge and a fortress. The views from up there stretch across the valley to the sea.
• Walking Trails – you can follow the river through the orange groves, stop for lunch beside the water, or take one of the marked paths that lead into the hills. In spring, the valley bursts with wildflowers, and in summer, the shade along the river makes it one of the coolest spots in Crete — literally and figuratively.
• Hiking – look for the Fodele Gorge (Santorinios Gorge), a rugged route lined with rocks, fig trees and, after heavy rain, a few small waterfalls. It’s not a touristy path, so wear good shoes and bring water, but it’s a rewarding adventure.
• Paralia Fodele – this is the beach on the coast. It is long and mostly sandy, with a few pebbly sections. One end is organised with sunbeds and umbrellas and a couple of (very good) tavernas, while the other stays more natural and relaxed. The water here is clean and usually calm, perfect for swimming, kayaking, or just lazing the day away.
• Fodele Beach & Water Park Holiday Resort – located right on Paralia Fodele this is a sprawling all-inclusive property that’s popular with families. It has everything from pools and water slides to spa facilities, several restaurants, and easy beachfront access. This is one of the better AI options in Crete as it isnt sharing the bay or the beach with many other big resorts and masses of people.
• Psiloritis UNESCO Global Geopark – stretches across much of central Crete. This vast protected area covers ancient rock formations, gorges, caves and fossil sites that tell the story of how Crete rose from the sea millions of years ago.
• Fodele Village – there are several tavernas that serve excellent Cretan food, often under the shade of the plane trees or beside the lush creek, full of frogs, ducks and Geese. Look for dishes like slow-cooked lamb, fresh salads with local olive oil, and desserts made with orange syrup or honey. Pair it with a glass of raki or local wine and you’ve got a meal worth lingering over.
• Souvenir Street – a handful of small craft and souvenir shops selling handmade pottery, woven textiles, and natural products like orange-blossom soap and olive oil. These are genuine local businesses, not the mass-produced kind you’ll find in resort towns. The lacework is exquisite.
• The festival of Agios Panteleimon on the 27th of July. There’s live music, traditional dancing, and enough grilled meat and wine to feed half of Crete. It’s a great time to see how locals celebrate — with warmth, laughter, and a few late nights.

Where to stay in Fodele

There are no hotels in Fodele itself. It’s a sleepy village that probably wouldn’t see any tourists at all if it weren’t for El Greco, and thankfully, it hasn’t​ yet justified the opening of tourist accommodation. There are a few traditional rooms and small villas scattered across the region, though.

You can stay at the aforementioned all-inclusive Fodele Beach & Water Park Resort, right on the beach —​a great option if you have kids.

If you would prefer no kids at all, Castello Infinity Suites in nearby Agia Pelagia is a lovely option, and there are many beautiful beaches to explore on the 30-minute ​drive.

Fodele Beach & Water Park resort

Castello Infinity Suites

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